Hanfu, also known as Han attire, Han clothing, or Hua clothing, is a traditional clothing system that developed under the influence of “Huaxia-Han” culture, with a focus on the rituals and customs of Huaxia civilization. Hanfu can be seen as a representation of China’s “Nation of Etiquette,” showcasing the outstanding craftsmanship and aesthetics of the Han people in weaving, dyeing, and embroidery. It naturally evolved into a style that embodies the unique characteristics of the Han ethnic group, distinctly different from the traditional clothing and accessory systems of other ethnic groups. The culture of Hanfu has a long and rich history. It has preserved over 30 forms of Chinese intangible cultural heritage and protected Chinese arts and crafts. It was formalized during the Zhou Dynasty and passed down through the Qin Dynasty. This system used hats and crowns as the primary symbols of social rank. By the reign of Emperor Ming of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Han crown and clothing system was established, drawing on the clothing systems of the Three Dynasties (Xia, Shang, and Zhou) and the Qin Dynasty. The overall style of clothing during this period was characterized by a solemn and elegant aesthetic. There were numerous variations of bun styles, too many to list comprehensively. During the Qin and Han periods, Han women typically combed their hair back and tied it into a bun. Additionally, noblewomen adorned their hair with step-shake hairpins and floral hairpins as decorations, while female servants often wrapped their heads with cloth. Women also wore ruqun (a type of blouse and skirt) and pants. The Han Dynasty also imposed strict regulations on footwear according to social rank. By the Tang Dynasty, Hanfu continued to evolve, bridging the past and the future, with both ceremonial and everyday clothing being used simultaneously. The formal attire for Han women was the Shenyi, which differed from that of the Warring States period. The primary components of women’s clothing were skirts, shirts, and shawls. During the Sui Dynasty and early Tang period, women typically wore short blouses with small sleeves and tight-fitting long skirts. The ruqun (a blouse and skirt combination) was the main style for women during the Tang Dynasty. The waistbands of these skirts were tied high, usually above the waist, and sometimes even under the armpits, secured with silk ribbons, creating a graceful and slender appearance. In the subsequent Song Dynasty, clothing largely followed the traditions established during the Sui and Tang dynasties. In the mid-Tang period, the ruqun became slightly wider compared to the early Tang period, but there were no significant changes in other aspects. Officials wore robes for most occasions, except for sacrifices and formal court assemblies, with different colors indicating their rank. Men’s clothing in the Song Dynasty continued to be dominated by round-collared robes. As Hanfu evolved into the Yuan Dynasty, the styles showed little difference between the northern and southern regions. For women, the hairstyle of the Song Dynasty favored the high buns that were popular in the late Tang Dynasty, and the practice of adorning hair with flowers had become customary. However, there was a significant disparity in the quality of materials, ranging from luxurious to coarse. The main headwear for officials in the Ming Dynasty continued the tradition of the futou from the Song and Yuan dynasties, with slight modifications. For ordinary people, clothing styles varied in length and type, including long robes, short jackets, shirts, and skirts, largely continuing the traditional designs, with a wide variety of options. During the Ming Dynasty, aside from the existing traditional hats, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang personally introduced two new types of headwear that were promoted nationwide and worn by both scholars and commoners: the Liuhe Yitong Hat and the Sifang Pingtou Scarf. It can be said that from the origin and development of Hanfu to its preservation and revival, thousands of years of history have left us with a wealth of valuable cultural heritage. It encapsulates the remarkable craftsmanship and aesthetics of Huaxia culture, such as weaving, wax dyeing, clamp resist dyeing, and embroidery. Hanfu encompasses an entire system of clothing and accessories, including garments, headwear, hairstyles, facial decorations, footwear, and other accessories. We often see intricately patterned Hanfu in television dramas, which is due to the continuation of the Zhou ritual of “valuing patterns” in Han culture. Each dynasty’s Hanfu had its distinct characteristics. The emblems and symbols on Hanfu are closely linked to the Han people’s understanding of the cosmos, the natural world, yin and yang, the Eight Trigrams, and auspicious symbols. For example, wedding garments and gifts exchanged between lovers often feature mandarin duck motifs, such as “Mandarin Ducks in Harmony” or “Mandarin Ducks Playing in Water.” For birthdays, patterns symbolizing longevity, such as “Pine and Crane Longevity,” “Cranes Offering Peaches,” and “Tortoise and Crane of the Same Age,” are commonly used. In addition to garments, headwear is also an essential part of Han Chinese attire. Different patterns are also selected based on the occasion. In ancient times, after reaching adulthood, Han men and women would tie their hair into a bun on top of their heads, securing it with a hairpin. Major headwear items included hats and scarves. The main types of hats were gauze hats, wind hats, and bamboo hats, while scarves included the lun scarf and net scarf.
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