Fanlingpao (Chinese: 翻领袍; pinyin: fānlǐngpáo; lit. It was categorized as Hufu instead of Hanfu due to its association with clothing of the foreigners who came from the Silk road. Tang dynasty when they feature double overturned lapels, is a type of paofu with lapels. Fanlingpao were first introduced in China during the Northern Wei dynasty and became popular in Northern Qi. The fanlingpao could be transformed into a round collar robe, called yuanlingpao, in the Tang dynasty through the use of buttons. The custom of wearing fanlingpao were then inherited and further developed in the Sui and Tang dynasties. 93 The kuapao could also be enriched with pattern trims or border decorations at the sleeves cuffs and along the lapels. In appearance, the kuapao looks similar to the kaftan with lapels and slim sleeves used by the Persian. Hufu-style clothing during this period; it was considered hufu while yuanlingpao was categorized as a form Hanfu. This form of lapel robe originated from Central Asia and was typically worn by men. The term kuapao was sometimes used to refer to double over-turned fanlingpao with tight sleeves, which overlaps at the front and closes on the right side of the body near the armpit in the Tang dynasty. Lapels robes originated from Western Asia and were popular in Central Asian in the Sogdian region, in Qiuci, and Gaochang. Lapels robes were spread eastward through the Sogdians. This form of overlapping closure to the right is a traditional Han Chinese characteristic, which was sometimes adopted by foreigners and/or non-Han Chinese, who had borrowed Chinese elements. The earliest depictions of Xianbei and Han Chinese people wearing lapel robes in China also date back to the Northern Wei dynasty. Lapel robes were first introduced in the north region of China during the Northern Wei dynasty. The Sogdians, who lived in China, were most influential between the second half of the 6th century and the beginning of the 7th century. The Sogdians and their descendants (mostly from the merchant class) who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, yuanlingpao-like kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia (i.e., Chinese and early Turks). Their robes were versatile, it could often be transformed into a yuanlingpao-like robe by buttoning up the neck to form the round collar or occasionally have their lower button undone allowing their collars to be form lapels, becoming lapel robes. Under the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, as well as Chinese traditions, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right. The Sogdians in China and Sogdia had both lapels down following the Iranian tradition or the tradition of the Saka people living in the Khotan Oasis. It was however not rare for Chinese Sogdians to wear their robes with only the left lapel, which was a distinguishing feature as the only left lapel robe was rarely found (almost unknown) in Sogdia. By the Northern Qi dynasty, lapel robes had become popular in the Han Chinese regions and were worn by both men and women. Fanlingpao worn during the Tang dynasty was categorized as Hufu. The wearing custom lapel robes were then inherited and further developed in the Sui and Tang dynasties. Wuzetian period (684 -704 AD). 27 It was very popular in the Tang dynasty during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao era during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong. It overlaps and closed to the right side, which follows the traditional Han Chinese system. 27 The fanlingpao of the preceding dynasties were further developed in the Tang dynasty; such that it could be transformed into the yuanlingpao by buttoning up three buttons on the collar. While adopting certain elements from foreign dress (e.g. Sogdian and Turk lapel robes), the Chinese however maintain their traditional way of closing their fanglingpao on the right side. It could be used as a jacket and was thrown over the shoulders like a cloak, which made women looked more masculine. The kuapao was also worn by women, who would wear it to cross-dress as men. It was worn with stripped trousers and leather waist-belt with leather strip attached to the belt. Huihu were the predecessors of the Uyghur. It was long enough to reach the ground, voluminous, and the sleeves were slim-fitting. 98 The Huihuzhuang was produced for the women of Han ethnic and had been inspired by the robes of Huihu women. The upper part of the robe was loose and had decorative patterns (or borders) on the collar and sleeves cuffs. 98 Based on the reconstruction from the Dunhuang frescoes, the Huihuzhuang had an overlapping front which could be closed with ties on the right or left side. 98 The Huihuzhuang was very popular among the Tang dynasty’s aristocratic women and the women of the imperial court. 98-99 Warm, colours were preferred, and the colour red was typically used; it was also generally made of thick brocade. 98 The rise of Uyghur-style robe occurred after the rebellion of An Lushan, when Uyghur culture grew along with their military power. Tang dynasty woman wearing kuapao, a hufu-style fashion. Sancai figures wearing fanlingpao (kuapao-style), overlaps on the right and closes to the right, Tang dynasty. The Turks typically had lapel robes which closed on the left side. This includes the Sogdians and the Turks, who typically closed their robes on the left side. Sogdian men wore Sogdian clothing but not their women. Author Chen Buyun describes the kuapao as having a “front opening”; however, the images provided shows a double over-turned lapel robe which overlaps at the front and closes on the right side of the body near the armpit. The manner these men wore their Sogdian robes were not exactly the same as the way they dress themselves in their motherland, Sogdia. According to the Yi Zhou Shu, Sogdian women used the Chinese clothing. Styling their robes in double lapels were not popular among the Turks of the Great Turkic Qaghanate (552-630) but were worn by the Sogdians in Sogdia and in China. They would wear their kaftans button-up more often and only button off for certain activities or occupation (such as dancers, hunters, etc). According to Gao et al (1987), this type of leather belt was also originated from northern minorities and was introduced in Central plain during the Wei and Jin period. Berman, Gabrielle (December 2020). 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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) (Thesis). Yatsenko, Sergey A (2019). “Some Notes on Sogdian Costume in Early Tang China”. The Journal of the Silk Road House. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu. Serica – Da Qin, Studies in Archaeology, Philology and History on Sino-Western Relations. Yatsenko, Sergey A. (2012). “Sogdian Costume in Chinese and Sogdian Art of the 6th-8th centuries”. Hua, Mei (2011). Chinese clothing (Updated ed.). G. Malinowski, A. Paron, B. Szmoniewski, Wroclaw (1 ed.). 臧, 迎春 (2003). 臧, 迎春 (ed.). Chen, BuYun (2017-01-02). “Material Girls: Silk and Self-Fashioning in Tang China (618-907)”. Fashion Theory. 五洲传播出版社. Translated by 臧迎春 and 李竹润. Greenwood Press “Daily life through history” series (illustrated ed.). Benn, Charles D. (2002). Daily Life in Traditional China: The Tang Dynasty. Greenwood Publishing Group. p. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. 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