Chinese clothing, Hanfu, system. 52 It was also associated with fast changes in fashion styles. 44 The concept of fuyao has appeared since the second century BC and its theoretical basis is derived from the Yin and yang principle as well as the Wuxing. 52 This concept of fuyao continued to be used even in the Qing dynasty. 52-54 The appearance of fuyao clothing was often associated with political and ecological upheaval. In ancient China, what was considered an appropriate form of clothing was based on the seasons, occasions, and more importantly the wearer’s identity, including social status. In ancient China, being dressed in fuyao clothing-style was understood as a form of social confusion in the way one dresses himself; for example, being dressed against what was prescribed by the rules and regulations and therefore having no consideration in the distinction between the higher and lower status; or wearing clothing-style which shows transgression in gender and/or sexuality norms. Clothing that is inappropriate to one’s status will bring disaster to one’s person. It begins from the hats and shoes, the jackets and collars. Those whose appearance is not respectful are insufficiently solemn, their arrogance is their culpability, frequent floods are their punishment, for in its extreme this is evil, and then fuyao occurs. When customs are dissolute and disrespectful, then rituals change and political upheaval easily occurs, thus the wearing of strange and frivolous dress creates fuyao. Fuyao could also refer to clothing of living people which had adopted mixed elements from the mourning attire even when there was the absence a close deceased relative. You are not a Uighur, so why is your cap so sharply pointed? The concept of fuyao was also used to invoke garment and apparel which blurred the distinction between Hufu and Hanfu. These things foretell ominous events. The term fuyao could sometimes be used to position a garment or style which popular but contrasting to the traditional style. 54 They could also be associated to shiyang (lit. Strange and inauspicious form of clothing. You are not in battle, so why is your jacket so short? In the mid-late Qing dynasty, both officials and scholars lamented that there was an increasing consumption of silk among the members of the lower status, such as actors, courtesans, servants, traditional chinese women’s clothing which was thus considered a fuyao fashion since this behaviour went against the Confucians virtues of frugality and simplicity. Maweiqun was introduced in the Ming dynasty from Joseon; it was considered fuyao as it went against the order of Heaven and Earth. Silberstein, Rachel (2020). A fashionable century : textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing. University of Washington Press. Zujie, Yuan (2004). Dressing the state, dressing the society : ritual, morality, and conspicuous consumption in Ming Dynasty China. UMI Dissertation services. pp. Tian, Xiaofei (2011). Visionary journeys : travel writings from early medieval and nineteenth-century China. New York: Columbia University Press. Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. This page was last edited on 26 April 2024, at 05:41 (UTC). Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.
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