The áo giao lĩnh (襖交領; lit. Vietnamese before the 19th century. The áo giao lĩnh was influenced from Han Chinese clothing. It is a robe with a wrap collar closing on the right side. During the Nguyễn dynasty, white cheongsam the áo ngũ thân was commonly worn and the áo giao lĩnh was only worn in formal occasions. China; garments with this form of wrap collar originated in China and started to be worn at least since the Shang dynasty (c. Although the design of the áo giao lĩnh was heavily influenced by China, it was less constrained in style compared to its Chinese counterpart; and thus, facilitated ease of movements to its wearer. The wrap collar closing on the right side is known as jiaoling youren (Chinese: 交領右衽; lit. In the 17th and 18th century, the áo giao lĩnh worn by men was an ankle-level gown which could be used as part of a formal attire; it was composed of four-panel of fabric and was loose-fitting and featured a jiaoling youren collar, loose sleeves, and side slits. 72 It was typically not decorated and black in colour. 72 Women usually tied a sash around their waist when wearing the áo giao lĩnh; the áo giao lĩnh came in blue, black, brown colours while the sash was either white in colour or found in the same colour as the áo giao lĩnh. Prior to the 18th century, nobles wore the áo giao lĩnh, which were adopted from Han Chinese clothing. 72 The women’s áo giao lĩnh were also a non-decorated, four panel of fabric, loose fitting gown, similar to those worn by men. In the 18th century, the áo ngũ thân (the precursor of the áo dài) replaced the áo giao lĩnh in order to meet the clothing requirement decreed by the Nguyen dynasty court during the rule of Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát in 1744 in order to distinguish the clothing worn between the people under his rule from the people ruled by the Trinh Lords. During the Lê dynasty (1428 – 1789 AD), aristocrats wore the áo giao lĩnh. The precursor of the áo dài then became the official clothing for both men and women in the South of Vietnam. In the 19th century, under the rule of Emperor Minh Mang (r. 1820-1841), the clothing in Vietnam was finally standardized throughout the entire country when Emperor Minh Mang decreed that the áo dài had to become the national dress for all the regions under his rule. The áo dài thus became the daily clothing of the Vietnamese. The authors of the book mostly consisted of dress makers, artists, stylists, photographers, proof readers and editors (but lacked the presence of historians and archeologists) attempted to reconstruct the ancient clothing worn by Vietnamese through extensive historical research. However, due to the lack of funds, the reconstructed clothing were not made with original materials or techniques. In the 21st century, áo giao lĩnh worn in the 15th century was depicted in a book titled Weaving a Realm published by the Vietnam Centre (a non-profit organization which aims to promote the culture and image of Vietnam). Portrait of Prince Nguyễn Phúc Thuần from the 17th century. Giảng học đồ (講學圖; Lecture Picture), 18th century, Hanoi Museum of National History. Official of Nguyễn lords depicted by the Qing dynasty. Men during the Hai Bà Trưng festival. Nguyễn dynasty official wearing an áo giao lĩnh. Zhao, Yin (2014). Snapshots of Chinese culture. Xinzhi Cai. Los Angeles. Kidd, Laura K.; Lee, Younsoo (2002). “The Style Characteristics of the Hwalot, with a Focus on One Robe from the Collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts”. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. Yu, Song-Ok (1980). “A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West”. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. Fiona. “A Brief History of Traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai”. Travel information for Vietnam from local experts. Howard, Michael C. (2016). Textiles and clothing of Viet Nam : a history. Áo dài” | Tập San Việt Học”. Weaving A Realm” Book Crowdfunding Project | Vietnam Centre – Bring Vietnam To You”. Paardekooper, Roeland (26 May 2021). “Book Review: Weaving a Realm, Vietnamese clothing from around 1500 AD | EXARC”. This page was last edited on 12 October 2024, at 05:37 (UTC). Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.
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